Quality of our clothes has been in steady decline since the late 1990s, when fast fashion caused production and consumption to rise and prices to plummet. Despite this, well-made garments do exist, if you know what you’re looking for. Here, experts explain how to tell if a garment has been made with care and skill before you take it into the fitting room.
The initial inspection
The best way to assess the quality of a garment’s construction is to look inside
- Check if the hem and seams are thoroughly sewn down
- Look for small stitches because they’re more durable
- Inspect the whole thing for flaws to make sure there are no threads coming undone or obvious signs it has been damaged or pulled
How to Pick Good Quality Fabric
High-quality fabric will feel better on your skin and generally fit, drape and wear better
- To judge the quality of a garment’s fabric, you need to get a sense of the fabric’s hand
- Rub the fabric against a part of your body that is more sensitive than the palm of your hand
Where something is manufactured
Knowledge and expertise vary widely across factories and within countries, and some of the most advanced technology and skilled workforces are in China and other parts of the global south.
- Does the price reflect the work that goes into making the clothing?
Check the tags
The tags inside the garment tell you where the garment was made, what its fabric composition is, and how to care for it. Avoid garments that are dry-cleaned only or labeled as hand-washed/dry-washed only for day-to-day use only.
Seams
The finish of a seam on the inside of a garment can tell you a lot about the time and care that went into making it
- Better quality garments will have bound seams, so that the raw edge of the fabric is covered
- Or flat-felled seams where there are no exposed edges, so the fabric has been folded twice and stitched along both sides
Material composition
Fabric composition tells you how the garment will wear
- Anything made of a protein fibre like wool will keep you warm when it’s cold but will also breathe if you get hot
- Fibres made from plant matter including cotton, linen or viscose rayon are breathable but won’t keep you as warm
- Synthetic fibres such as nylon are trickier
